nasaforums.com

hi. i've been doing some reading on here for some time. in truth i would like to to some type of course type racing, be either autoxing or some of the other type racing. i know that making the car fast isn't important to me at the present time but more getting the power i have to the ground.

i've had this car for over 3 years but i've only put 5k miles on it cause of problem with the motor it came with DOHC ZC engine. massive headaches with that engine so i'm switching over to a D16a6. as you can see by my spec i didn't build it over night. i've been very patience. while it still will be my DD, i want to do a little weekend racing very soon.

i am considering buying a set of Corbeau Forza 2(cause of my fat a$$. lol.), 4pt harness and fab up a harness bar like fred(crxmotorsport). so please any advice will be appericated in how can i improve my suspension. i can hear the massive GC and Koni. i am considering it too.

thank you

remo

specs:
1990 Honda Civic Hatchback Dx

Engine D16a6

Head:

2.5" cold air intake.
D16y8 intake manni header opened by 1mm
60mm B18a tb
61.5mm port side open on intake manni(for anti reversion), and 2" deburred on runner exit
240cc oem injectors
D16a6 head (port, polish, combustured chambers deshrouded, intake port open by 1mm for antireversion)
Crane 215-0016 cam
OEM spring and retainers

ECU:

harness jump to ODB1
P06 ECU with a P28 basemap.
B&M Fuel presurre regulator and guage

Exhaust:

D16y8 4-2-1 OEM header moose mod removed the inner pipe
one 2 1/4" straight pipe from the header to the first bend of the exhaust where it steps up to 2.36" exhaust(Tanabe Medallion Exhaust).

Block:

75:00 mm bore zero deck
SRP pistons
Probe I beam rods
compression ?
ARP head stud
ACL bearings
OEM oil pump
94-01 Acura Integra OEM dual core radiator
filled in motor mounts w/3M

Transmission:

GS-R shifter
OEM flywheel(will be going to a 12lbs)
XTD Stage 1 clutch
89 DOHC ZC 1st-5th gearing
91 Civic/Crx Si 4.250 FD
91 Civic/Crx Dx diff and tranny case.
(rebuilding another tranny a Si tranny with ZC 1th-5th gearing, ZC 4.437 FD w/ZC OEM LSD, will use the intermed shaft to run to short axle)

Suspension:

Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master kit
OEM bushing that didn't come w/the ES kit(every bushing replace)
Ebay strut braces FU/RU
Jimfab traction bar
93 integra front 22mm hollow sway bar(was told it's about the same as a 19mm solid sway bar. also search for a HF 15mm solid front sway bar)
ASR sub frame brace w/a 22mm solid ITR/R
Tokico HP Blues
RS*R Racing Springs(6.10kg(341lbs)/F & 4.20kg(235lbs)/R
(looking at buying Tein Flex ITR so i can use ITR r/lca)

Brakes:

90 Prelude 15/16" master cylinder and brake booster(will upgrade to a 1" mc/bb)
OEM rotors and drums(will upgrade front rotors to 11" Corrabo rotors, Fastbrake brackets and Integra front calipers)
Stainless steel lines

Interior:
full interior
TYP ATIWE 32 steering wheel
OEM interior
RAZO 300mm rear view mirror
Ichibahn peddles, shifter boot and e-brake boot
OBX shift knob and e-brake

Exterior:
2 - 90-93 Acura Integra lips
ACP foglights
Honda OEM lugs with locks
15" GS-R rims
205/50/15 Nitto Neo Gen

I'm a noob too but I do know if you install good seats for a harness, get a 5 point or 6 point, not a 4 point. I'm not sure of what type harness bar you are refering to but if you are not going to make a 4 point roll bar with built in diaganol and harness bar then make sure what ever you build will hold up/not fail in the event you "test" it.

And, as said below, read the CCR and build it to spec.

Please, please, please read and understand the CCR's as far as rollbars and cages.

Not sure where you are, but most areas of the country have great fabricators that can build you a SAFE roll bar or full cage. For example I have a 1992 Corvette, I can find a roll bar that sorta meets the CCR for around $700 without shipping and installation. Probably would be close to $1000 total installed. My fabricator created a stronger roll bar that fully meets the CCR for materials and labor for $870.

Your choice, there are lots of pictures of bolt in bars that punctured the floor pan because of bad installs.

on the harness 4pt/5pt i thought the only difference between the was the strap that goes between your legs. as for the harness bar i was referring to a bar like fred from crxmotorsport.com has.



in truth the reason i was asking about the bar in truth two reason. one is weight with interior and two is i'm not truely ready to strip the interior and put in a cage.

i do want to still keep this car as a DD but if i do decide to take it to the next step. i live in SC, i've been on a watch for a crx and i get to see alot of them. i've had one already but it wasn't to my standards to take it to that step. i've already had 4 crx offered to me that i had passed on for many reason. and when i do this is the cage i'm going with the door bars:

thank you i will

Uh... that's not a cage, and it doesn't have any door bars. Think more like this:

if you did read you'll would have see i wrote with the door bars too.

You posted a pic of a roll bar (4 points of attachment), not a roll cage (6+ points.) Without all that front stuff, there's nothing to attach door bars to.

facepalm. lol.

yes that is the only difference in the hardware. the effective difference is between not safe and safe. almost none 4points harnesses provide any protection against submarining and no organization will let u run on the track with 4 points.

get proper 5 or 6 point harnesses and a seat MADE for a 5/6 harness with crotch belt holes. most street seats do not have a crotch hole. you cannot loop the crotch belt over the front of the seat. it'll crush yer nuts in an accident. the crotch belt must be vertical to 20degrees backwards from where your crotch is.


and u also need at least a rollbar in order to run 5/6 harnesses.