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OK since the M3 is RIP at Sebring I needed a replacement TT car so going Wrong Wheel Drive for a change. Need to clarify one of the rules, yes I could email Greg but what fun is that,

10) Non-BTM rear control arms on FWD vehicles (for stiffness and wheel alignment only, no
change in suspension mount or pick-up points from stock) +1 (if both front and rear use E.9)

What exactly does Non-BTM mean in this instance. Does it allow aftermarket rear control arms for 1 point? Is this a FWD goodie over 9) below which is 4 points.

VS

9) Replace or modify control arms (other than plates, shims, slots, or eccentric bolts/bushings
for simple camber/caster adjustment only) or RWD/AWD rear trailing arms (may have
spherical/metallic joint for the connection to the spindle/knuckle) +4

Peter

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2006 Civic Si #61 TTD/PTD
1995 M3 TTC #61 RIP Sebring
2004 Porsche GT3 with a few TSB's

Congrats on joining the Dark Side!

It all depends on the platform. For instance: On older Honda/Acura cars (88-00 Civic, 90-01 Integra) the rear lower control arm (RLCA) is basically just a mounting point for the rear shock and acts as a bridge between the rear of the body and the rear trailing arm. The rear upper control arm is where all the magic happens for camber adjustment.

SO, if you have an older Honda/Acura in mind, don't bother wasting a point on aftermarket rear lower control arms UNLESS they come with sweet spherical bearings AND you plan on doing more spherical bearings throughout the suspension, Otherwise, just get brand new OEM replacement bushings for the arm and press out old/press in new.

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#624 TTE/PTE Integra
As seen in Super Street FF Battle 4! (November 2012 issue)

Ok still learning the differences from the M. You referenced the lower control arm but 10) does not distinguish between the upper or lower arm.

Peter

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2006 Civic Si #61 TTD/PTD
1995 M3 TTC #61 RIP Sebring
2004 Porsche GT3 with a few TSB's

Correct. In the case of an older Honda/Acura, you would only want/need to replace the rear upper control arms to allow camber adjustment.

Replacing the rear lower control arms by themselves would be a waste.

Replacing both upper and lower rear control arms would be fine but you would only gain any real benefit if the rear lower control arms had spherical bearings in them AND you were already taking points for having spherical bearings throughout the suspension. Other than that, replacing the rear lower control arms is a waste of money.

AND if you're going to replace both front and rear upper control arms to allow camber adjustment, you would then take 9) as indicated in 10). Thus, at this point, replacing the rear lower control arms would cost you +1 in 10) and really be a waste.

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#624 TTE/PTE Integra
As seen in Super Street FF Battle 4! (November 2012 issue)

Thanks that is what I needed to know. Onward and upward.

Peter

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2006 Civic Si #61 TTD/PTD
1995 M3 TTC #61 RIP Sebring
2004 Porsche GT3 with a few TSB's

FWD?

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NASA-SE Time Trial Director, Instructor

Yep Ian is a bad influence. After rear engine RWD, time for a new experience. Going to see if an old dog can learn any new tricks.

Peter

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2006 Civic Si #61 TTD/PTD
1995 M3 TTC #61 RIP Sebring
2004 Porsche GT3 with a few TSB's

It is all about spending money in truly prodigous amounts. hope it is something cool like a Peugeot.

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NASA-SE Time Trial Director, Instructor

FWD can be a blast.. just keep your foot in it and you can pull yourself out of all sorts of rear end slides.. haha


I'm envious of you guys going to sebring (especially after watching the 12 hour race there this weekend!) ...it's on my bucket list... some day!

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SM #7 (the token 'girl' racing out there with the boys)

Trying to not spend truly prodigious amounts of money this time around. I will let you know how that works out. Nothing cool just an ex SSB Civic Si but at least it doesn't have the BMW/Porsche tax on parts.

Peter

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2006 Civic Si #61 TTD/PTD
1995 M3 TTC #61 RIP Sebring
2004 Porsche GT3 with a few TSB's